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Genie in a Bottle February 22, 2011 at 11:38 pm

This depends what type of leather it is. if it is very absorbent then the dirt and stains will have soaked into the leather and will not clean out.For general cleaning you need to use a good quality water based foam leather cleaner. Strong cleaner or Maxi Cleaner if it is very dirty. With light coloured leather dye transfer from clothing can be a problem although using a good quality leather protector will help inhibit this.DO NOT use anything containing oils, waxes or silicones. (Most ‘conditioners’ contain waxes or oils) and furniture polish contains siliconesBABY WIPES are the worst thing you can use as they will destroy the finish on your leather. They are very strong alkiline cleaners to neutralise urine (acid) on babys skin so they are not the right thing to use on leather.Saddle soap is too harsh to use on fine leather.A lot of leather wipes contain chemicals which will also destroy the finish or leave residues on the leather which will damage it. They are not cheap in the long run as you would need a lot to clean a whole leather sofa. A bottle of foam cleaner should do your furniture 1-2 times.Fairy liquid contains more salt these days to get dishes clean and this will break the finish down on your leather. This has been verified by the manufacturers (as with the baby wipes).You should also follow cleaning with a good water based leather protector which will act like a ’scotchgard’ and inhibit dirt and stains from being absorbed and make cleaning easier the next time. Dry leather needs rehydrating with water and oils and waxes should not be used as the natural oils do not dry out of leather. Wiping over with a damp cloth regularly will help to do this. It is important to maintain a regular cleaning regime cleaning dirt off the surface regularly and inhibiting the absorption of body oils into the leather with a protector is the best way of doing this.The alternative is a brand new product on the market called Lazy Leather. This is the latest technology in cleaning and combines an effective cleaner with a protector. It is quick and easy to use and should be used as a maintenance product once your suite has been cleaned or from new if you have just bought it.Using household products may appear to work but will in the long run deteriorate the leather finish quicker and it may tehn be impossible to restore. May seem cheaper to use products from the supermarket but if they do not work or damage the leather then it is a short sighted saving.Please DO NOT use hairspray on the ink marks, although it sometimes works it can cause more damage which is then unfixable.You can use an LTT ink stick but not if it is an aniline (absorbent) leather.

Ye2 February 23, 2011 at 11:51 am

Well they could make copper wire and computer parts. A good example of a country like this is Zambia. As for wheat it would be down to export of it. Olives can be made into olive oil and they could look at developing bio-diesel also for export.

Judy B February 23, 2011 at 11:50 pm

You need to use a good quality water based foam leather cleaner. Strong cleaner or Maxi Cleaner if it is very dirty. With light coloured leather dye transfer from clothing can be a problem although using a good quality leather protector will help inhibit this.DO NOT use anything containing oils, waxes or silicones. (Most ‘conditioners’ contain waxes or oils) and furniture polish contains siliconesBABY WIPES are the worst thing you can use as they will destroy the finish on your leather. They are very strong alkiline cleaners to neutralise urine (acid) on babys skin so they are not the right thing to use on leather.Saddle soap is too harsh to use on todays leathers.A lot of leather wipes contain chemicals which will also destroy the finish or leave residues on the leather which will damage it. They are not cheap in the long run as you would need a lot to clean. A bottle of foam cleaner should do your car about 3-4 times.Fairy liquid contains more salt these days to get dishes clean and this will break the finish down on your leather. This has been verified by the manufacturers (as with the baby wipes).You should also follow cleaning with a good water based leather protector which will act like a ’scotchgard’ and inhibit dirt and stains from being absorbed and make cleaning easier the next time. Dry leather needs rehydrating with water and oils and waxes should not be used as the natural oils do not dry out of leather. Wiping over with a damp cloth regularly will help to do this. It is important to maintain a regular cleaning regime cleaning dirt off the surface regularly and inhibiting the absorption of body oils into the leather with a protector is the best way of doing this.The alternative is a brand new product on the market called Lazy Leather. This is the latest technology in cleaning and combines an effective cleaner with a protector. It is quick and easy to use and should be used as a maintenance product once your suite has been cleaned or from new if you have just bought it.As your leather is already slightly cracked it may be an idea to have this fixed now. If you leave these areas they will get worse over time even if you start looking after them now. LTT can supply pigments for restoration matched to the right colour. Using incorrect care products is usually the cause of deterioration in the leather as unfortunately most car care products contain waxes and oils or silicones which do not do the leather any good.Please do not use baby oil!!Source(s):www.LTTsolutions.netLeather care consultants to the furniture and cleaning industries

Krispy February 24, 2011 at 11:54 am

Yeah, my couches stuck when I got them. After the first cleaning and conditioning the smell began to fade…try conditioning it.

npm February 24, 2011 at 11:48 pm

Check out this guide: http://faculty.maryvillecollege.edu/library/researchguides/companyfinancial.htm

ddead_alive February 25, 2011 at 11:49 am

I use the Dead Sea Scrolls as my source for what the Essenes teach. You provide no source for your statements here.

Richard February 25, 2011 at 11:54 pm

Mink oil and Neatsfoot oil are both good conditioners. It is hard to find either product which has not been diluted or “enhanced” with modern synthetic products (like silicone).A mixture of pine pitch and mink oil is a traditional method of preserving and conditioning. Check out natural brands like Montana Pitch-Blend if you want all natural products. They also have a leather dressing (with bees wax added).Neatsfoot oil is almost as good as mink oil, but tends to darked the leather. Be sure that you get the pure oil. not a product that has been compounded. If you want the most control over your leather (either for use or sale) you might want to mix your own oil (mink or neatsfoot) with pine rosin (available in sports stores for use in grip control) and local bees wax.

Amy G February 26, 2011 at 11:52 am

spray the furniture you don’t want clawed with citrus scent.cats dont like citrus scent. DO NOT DECLAW THEM WHATEVER YOU DO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

☼Lyla is pretty much done! February 26, 2011 at 11:58 pm

definitely! i wish there was something like this! i just bought some leather cleaner today, and if there was a handmade and/or cruelty free product, i would have bought it in an instant. especially being a vegetarian, cruelty free is great when i can get it, i already feel guilty having leather boots and a leather saddle.so yes, i would buy it

annieR February 27, 2011 at 11:57 am

Never use any oil or oil based prodcuts on your leather. If your leather has cracks the oils will soak through to the leather and will actually loosen the bond between the pigment coating and the leather so will make the problem worse and it could make repairing the problem impossible.vLeather does not need oiling, waxing or conditioning. Cracks appear in the pigment for many reasons, it could simply be wear and tear or the incorrect use of cleaning products or the fact that it has not been cleaned and protected, or if it is not very old it could be a fault in the finish.The important thing is to get the cracks sorted now before they get any worse otherwise they may reach a stage where they are impossible to fix. These cannot be fixed by any sort of creams, oils or conditioners but will need refinishing by a qualified technician.Once this has been repaired use a good protector and maintenance product to keep your leather clean and rehydratred and this will help prevent any dirt from attacking the finish again

⎳sam. February 28, 2011 at 12:08 am

Don’t put it in the washer, that will most likely ruin the jacket.I’d recommend you just wear it out eventually the shine will fade away, it’s probably the safest.

Mamma2 February 28, 2011 at 11:50 am

You have an all all around saddle. It is considered to be an good saddle for a fairly new to intermediate rider to learn with as it is apparently comfortable to ride in. When you become more advanced, most riders move up to a new saddle though. It was made to fit mostly slim built to medium size horses, though occasionally you will find one that fits a wider horse. You do have to be careful and make sure the fit is absolutely correct on the horse or you will have some problems (sores, tender spots, etc) more so than with other saddles. They are mostly found in Europe (Sweden, to be exact) and sell for about $100 – $400 dollars depending upon the style (dressage, flat back deluxe sell for more than the all around does. Still, they don’t really top $400 for excellent condition in the more desired styles. The all around fetches about $100-$250 in excellent condition). I don’t know when they were made or who by, though there is a lot of speculation that they were made for a very short time before being bought out by another company and other styles took over with this one being discontinued. The prices are current market values for used saddles. I don’t know what they cost when originally sold.Add: Okay, once I got the mold off the one I ride in the most, it didn’t come back and that was even after it was tossed up in an attic in Florida for 3 years when I had a baby. I would use leather dye very carefully. You can buy it in the tack store for a couple of bucks (very cheap). Use it BEFORE you condition the saddle but after you clean it so that the color will be absorbed by the leather and won’t wear off easily. Leather TLC works well as a cleaner and conditioner, but you will want to use another conditioner afterward. You can use olive oil, but I wouldn’t use anything else other than actual leather cleaner and conditioner from a tack or supply store. In the old days for tack that was black, they would submerge the leather is used motor oil for several days to weeks at a time. It worked, but needed to be cleaned after dry and would turn your tack black as the night sky if it didn’t start out that way. I don’t know if I would do it with a saddle though I have with bridles and harness’s.The “hairy substance” is what they used in the older saddles. Mine has it. Don’t mess with it as it will be extremely fragile and will come apart very easily if disturbed. If that happens, you will be paying someone to redo it.With measuring, you can have someone at a tack store measure it for you or go from the front of the pommel (in front of the stud) to the back to get the right size. This is an older saddle so you are going to want to take care of the leather to keep it going. Don’t do any weird stuff to it!

Vixie March 1, 2011 at 12:10 am

Hindu by birth.. and vegetarian by choice.. I dont believe in ‘God’ as someone who has to be worhipped everyday by offering prayers and fasting.. as most hindus do.. I like to believe that God is within me.. thts it! And rest falls into place.

Judy B March 1, 2011 at 11:29 am

Please ensure first that this is Nubuck and not one of the very good imitations that are on the market.Because Nubuck is very sensitive leather it is essential to follow a strict maintenance regime to ensure the leather retains its look and soft texture.If you have allowed your furniture to become excessively dirty (high use areas have become matted down and taken on a dark slimy appearance) it is advisable to contact a cleaning specialist to restore your furniture before continuing with the process outlined below.All Nubuck should be treated with Waterstop from the outset. High use areas (arms, seats and backs) should be lightly vacuumed regularly, taking care not to scratch the surface.We do not recommended any ‘wet’ cleaning product for general cleaning as it is a difficult process and should be left to an experienced cleaner.What can be done is a regular treatment with a Napping Brush and Nubuck Cloth. This is a simple, effective and safe way to care for Nubuck leather.ITEMS REQUIRED: Nubuck Cleaning Kit: (Napping brush, Nubuck Cloth, Sponge (ideal size150mmx75mmx75mm,Waterstop)PROCESS: The first step is to break up the surface fibres with the Napping Brush. This is especially important on areas that have become matted with body oils.You can be quite aggressive with the napping brush but keep it moving so that you do not over scrub one spot.Then unfold and flatten out the Nubuck Cleaning Cloth. This should then be wrapped tightly, smoothly and evenly around the sponge. Ideally what you should end up with is a smooth, even cylinder approx. 35-40mm in diameter. (If you make a mess of your first attempt undo and try again)*What you have created is a ‘tack roll’ that you will draw across the surface of the leather. In doing so the roll removes dirt from the pile of the Nubuck. This action should be repeated gently and evenly in all directions across the surface (if you clean only in one direction you will clean only one side of the pile).Set the nap with a dry sponge.After this process a light spray with Waterstop is recommended, particularly in the high use areas.General notes:Spillages and marks on Nubuck should be attended to as quickly as possible. Wet spillages should be blotted gently from the surface, do not be tempted to rub, as you will force the spillage deeper into the leather. Once you have blotted out as much as you can, assess what remains. The next step, if you decide it is required, would be a wet cleaning process and should ideally be carried out before the original spill has dried out.Use Leather Shampoo on a sponge to damp the affected area (always treat the whole panel of leather not just the area – Nubuck ‘watermarks’ very easily) and again blot with paper towel or dry cloth. Repeat this process several times before drying with a hairdryer. When thoroughly dry re-nap with a dry sponge. Treat with Waterstop.Heavier spills, foodstuffs etc. should be gently scraped off with a blunt knife. Then gently wipe over with Nubuck foam and sponge (as above). Dry, re-nap and protect.The Nubuck Cleaning Cloth can be used in most circumstances for dirty scuffmarks, ink, any dry marks etc. It may not be effective but it will not create further damage or exacerbate the problem. Never attempt to remove marks on Nubuck with solvent cleaners. They will only dissolve the dirt and drive it deeper into the leather.*Once the ‘Nubuck roll’ has become excessively dirty it can be unrolled and reused making use of both sides.Re-dying nubuck is a very tricky process although it can be done but does not make it any less porous etc.

Mamma2 March 1, 2011 at 11:52 pm

Use leather cleaner, lots of rubbing and then start again. It will work out. I like the wear old pants when riding strategy. It may make it a little easier and less elbow grease.For the rust, use aluminum foil. Make sure it is dry (saddle and foil). At first it will get black (and your hands), but then it will be gray and what isn’t damaged and pitted out by the rust will shine up like new. Swap out foil as needed (you will know when to). Once you get it as good as it is going to get, you can take a slightly damp cloth to it to wipe off anything extra. Brasso will help shine up the rest if you want to do something easy for results. Take a clean, dry cloth and get a “little” bit of Brasso on it. It will be a cream color to start out with – have ventilation. Rub it in small circles to get the best effect. At first it will turn black as you rub it – keep going. It will rub right off as you go and leave a great shine. It is used on all shinning stuff in the military and on my tack. Repeat as desired for more shine. I was able to make my stirrup irons into great mirrors!

crappyzombie March 2, 2011 at 11:44 am

Maybe try to leave it alone and not bother it, That works for misquito bites, poision ivy and things like thatIf its Really bothering you then call a doctor or get some medicine from a pharmacy. But until then put make-up on it, =)