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fluffy November 11, 2010 at 11:58 pm

if the wipe you are using is silicone impregnated, it is keeping any oil away from the metal surface, by embedding silicone into the valleys of the etching, or engraving, do not use a wipe. use gun oil.

Tahoeguy November 12, 2010 at 11:50 am

This is not uncommon with carry guns, no matter how much you oil them. I would try switching holsters to something non-leather (kydex) and see if it helps. the problem is that whatever surface treatment (parkerizing, phosphate, etc) has been removed by the laser engraving. as not classy as it sounds, you could try a wax shoe polish over the engraving. its commonly used by engravers and silversmiths to highlight areas of a piece.just smudge it on, let it dry, and then take a paper towel and wipe it off. it should stay in the engraving recesses. try stiff paper if it smears out. you have to play with it a little and reapply occasionally.

D58 November 12, 2010 at 11:29 pm

I always custom fit my pistol to my leather holsters and in doing do it also removes the excessive oil.I first soak my new holster in hot water not boiling but not far from it.Let it soak for an hour or so pour off the water because the heavy oil film on top and repeat the process again.I then place my pistol in a large zip lock plastic bag so as not to let it be exposed to the water.Remove the holster and hand dry it off with an old towel white preferably insert the pistol covered in the plastic bag all the way and wrap the rig in the white towel and let it air dry for a few days or until totally dry and then hand rub in some saddle soap on the holster.The first thing you notice is the leather holster in drying firm fitted its self to the pistol as it shrank up in some places and stretched in others.To my opinion it makes a better looking and feeling match to the pistol.And solved the oil bleed problem also.The process is used by custom holster makers and is called wet molding.I learned about years ago in a gun magazine article and have used it ever since with great success.I hope I was of some help.First off thank you broke_magnum I take that as quite a complement. John S if you leather cant take this process you need to buy better leather. All 6 leather holsters I have in use at this time were all high quality finished products.2 of which are very expensive SAS quick draw rigs that cost more then some people pay for their weapons.All 6 were wet formed by me as described in this process and a couple of them are getting quite old, one is old enough to vote.And I have never had one get harmed in this process.I do believe the oil and wax process is to make leather as much as possible water repellent.Now just pour some room temperature water on it and see how it reacts, on finished leather it beads up and rolls off.Finished leather requires hot water “not Boiling”The first process is to get the excess oil off, the repeat process is to make sure you get total saturation.Were not cooking a Turkey.D58

angela November 13, 2010 at 12:11 pm

Use an aerosol can of penetrating oil to squirt into the scabbard and leave it overnight to work its way right down. Penetrating oil is much thinner than most oil and will go into small gaps better just give it time. Try pulling in the morning by hand as you don’t want to damage the dagger handle with pliers. If that doesn’t work fill a tall deep container with boiling water and dip the scabbard in , the heat will cause the metal scabbard to expand away from the blade and it should then be possible to pull the dagger out.